"g's" Gear Choices
for
The Basics

"g's" Gear Tips

Personal 1st Aid Kit:

I store all 1st aid supplies in small, zip lock type bags, which are then stored in a small OR (brand) red mesh pouch.

Approx. weight: <1-lb depending on the needs of the trip.

Personal 1st Aid Kit: Be smart. Be prepared. When traveling in a group, consolidate some of your first aid supplies. Here's my list for a personal first aid kit for a week's trip:

1) 3-sterilized gauze pads; 10-sport, water proof band aides, 3-burn blister pads, 5-self adhesive blister pads, clear 1st aide tape, Neosporin (antibiotic).

2) Emergency foil blanket, sun screen, bug repellent, insect/snake bite kit, Hypo Tears (to keep eye flushed/moist), storm/waterproof matches, lip balm, water purification pills, tweezers, nail clipper, bear/emergency whistle.

3) Medications labeled with dose of each pill, instructions for use and expiration date: Motrin (800 & 200 mg.), Tylenol, Pepto-Bismol tablets, pain medication, decongestant, antibiotic, Epi-Pen for bee stings, and Benadryl for allergic reactions.

* I always adjust my first aide needs per trip. 8-oz of supplies is a good goal to strive for.

Headlamp:

Black Diamond Zenix - HyperBright LED Headlamp Position #1: 1-HyperBright LED (35m @ 15 hrs) Position #2: 2-SuperBright LEDs (15m @ 100 hrs) Waterproof 4.5-oz w/ 3 AAA Batteries $45
Aurora LED Headlamp 3 LEDs placed in a triangle Waterproof 2.8 oz. w/ 3 AAA Batteries $30 Luminosity output (low, medium and high): 160, 110 and 50 hours

Headlamp: It took DeWallis giving me a headlamp as a holiday gift to (begin to) get over the weirdness of (perhaps) wearing the odd illuminator. Now I know. It's the only way to go!

Headlamps can be purchased with any number of features. Consider: the type of bulb, brightness and its corresponding distance/luminosity ratio, duration of battery life, number and type of batteries required, water resistance and weight.

For reasons of ultra-lightness, I sported the Aurora in 2003. It's waterproof (the only one at the time), extremely light, and uses the new(er) L.E.D. bulbs (3 positioned in a triangle). Its multifunctional button allows the user to click through 3 different brightness options, each corresponding to luminosity output and battery life (160, 110 and 50 hours). LED offers a different kind of light, but High Altitude Joe and I gave it the 'ol walk around the house at night treatment and were immediately pleased.

NEW GEAR Update for 2004: LED headlamps are here to stay! They are ultra light weight, have bulbs that last forever, and offer longevity of battery life. My first LED light (Aurora... which I loved...) didn't provide enough light when I got lost in the woods at Marcy Dam returning to my tent from the outhouse at 2:00 AM! For this reason, I've switched to the Zenix headlamp which has proved to provide exceptional light.

Compression Sack:

Granite
Small sizes preferably

	One can easily see the benefit of compression sacks for a tent (left) and sleeping bag (right) next to the Standard Referencing Device.

Compression Sacks: What a wonderful thing for tents (minus the poles and stakes), sleeping bags, and bulky clothing. Compression sacks force bulky items to acquiesce pack space for other gear.

Purchase small compression sacks. Large sacks compress gear into big fat pancakes that are hard to pack. Sacks that are too large for individual gear items (e.g., sleeping bags) result in poor compression. When compressing sacks, kneel on the filled sack to force compression and then pull tight with compression straps to avoid tears.

Compression sacks carry extremely well in packs with external frames. In my very light, Aether 60 (internal frame), compression sacks can feel like a big knot poking me in the back. Consequently, I limit compression sack use, don't always compress sacks to their smallest size, and have learned where to place them in my pack for pack-carrying comfort.

Hiking Boots:

Montrail Hurricane Ridge XCR $110 3-season hiking 2 layers of Gore-Tex XCR Size 11 (1-lb/12-oz)
With inner and outer layers of Gore-Tex, these super light trail runners felt dreamy from the moment I put them on. They have a wide toe box which is rare and offers exceptional comfort when feet swell on long hot backpacking trips. When backpacking the West Coast Trail (7/09), the actual weight of my shoes, socks, running shorts and T-shirt was less then 2-1/2 lbs! (My first pair of boots weighed 3-lb/10-oz!)
Merrell XCR - Mid-cut ($110) 3-season hiking Gore-Tex lined Vibram sole Size: 11 (2-lb/9-oz)
Considered a "light-hiker," this 2-lbs/9-oz, Gore-Tex lined, Vibram soled boot had the feel/heel-cushion of a running shoe the moment I put them on. Really. Comfort is enhanced by a medium weight, Smart Wool sock. I think they may be a tad slipperier then my Cresta Hikers. They're 1/2-lb. lighter per foot then my other boots!
Salomon GTX - high cut ($135) Winter/snowshoeing boot Gore-Tex lined Size: 11 (3-lb/12-oz)
A robust and heavy duty (non-insulated) boot (3-lbs/12-oz) with a Gore-Tex lining that actually feels very light when walking. It's sole has a slight rocker conducive for easy walking and this offsets any sense of a stiffer (not stiffest) shank in the sole. From the moment I put them on, they felt great. Having snowshoed with them, they are warmer and more comfortable then the Cresta Hikers or Merrell.

LL Bean
Cresta Hiker ($165)
Gore-Tex lined
Leather uppers
Vibram sole
Size: 10-1/2 (3-lbs/10-oz)
Free, rapid exchange option for immediate exchanges through the mail. Items can be returned for a refund for any reason - used or not. Short break-in period.

Above: "a" wears her dad's Cresta Hikers and sadly wonders if he'll ever wear them again.

Hiking Boots (Updated 11/04):

After significant and personal field research, gear talk with the Boys, and consultations with those in the know... I've put together the most definitive and concise understanding about how to choose the perfect hiking shoe/boot for non-winter backpacking. But first, the givens:

(1) Footwear considered is "3-season";
(2) Pack weight should be less then 45-lbs.;
(3) Footwear should have a medium to firm shank flex to support a heavy load on rocky terrain (i.e., to avoid hurty-foot-bottoms);
(4) Footwear should be comfortable on multi-day trips;
(5) Waterproof/breathable features are desired; and,
(6) footwear should be light (a relative term depending on your total body and pack weight).

Waterproof/Breathable Footwear (WBF):
When purchasing waterproof/breathable footwear (WBF), the sales person should (but never will) never tell you the following: (1) feet sweat when hiking so the inside of your WBF will become at least damp; (2) WBF causes more foot sweating in warmer temperatures because of its waterproofing feature; (3) under extreme wet/snowy conditions, the outside fabric of the shoe/boot will absorb water causing heavier shoe weight; (4) in cold weather, wet shoes (the outer layer) will conduct coldness to the feet; (5) when feet sweat and the outside layer of the WBF is wet, the breathable feature of the boot has no benefit; (6) under normal hiking conditions, one's feet will always become damp/wet from perspiration because (unlike waterproof/breathable clothing) there is no adequate adjustable ventilation system built into shoes; (7) when the temperature is warmer then the inside of the sweaty boot, the transfer of moisture to the outside stops; and, (8) there are specific skills to acquire for keeping feet dryer when hiking and when drying the inside of wet/damp shoes.

Synthetic "Light Hiker" Shoes/Boots vs. Leather Boots:
Phooey on the notion that leather boots offer better ankle support. Except for winter hiking/snowshoeing or when carrying heavy loads (+60 lbs), I'd choose a synthetic "light hiker" because (a) they are at least 3/4 pound lighter per foot when compared to leather boots, and (b) they should be comfortable and ready to go the moment you put them on! Synthetic shoes/boots require no break-in period as compared to 1-2 months with leather boots. Ankle Support? Synthetic shoes/boots provide exceptional ankle support when combined with lower pack weight (<45-lbs), a firm shank-flex rate, and high cut design (although, I prefer the low-cut).

The fit:
Synthetic shoes should feel great the moment you put them on. There should be no break-in period. Grab the shoe by the heel and toe and twist the shoe to determine if the flex-rate is firm. Wearing the shoes with a loaded pack, step on the edge of a hard surface just under the arch of the foot to test for stiffness/support. A shoe with a soft flex-rate means you'll feel every rock you step on and the shoe will not support your feet with a backpack of 40-lbs.

Drying the Inside of Wet/Damp Boots:
The expert at the Mountaineer (Keene, NY) validated my concerns about Gore-Tex, the inevitable wet-inside of WBF, and strategies for drying their insides. When hiking has ended for the day, remove the shoe inserts and sleep with them; they'll dry at night along with your wet/damp socks. Stuff wet shoes with extra large, super thick rag wool socks; they'll draw moisture off the inside wall of the shoe. In cold weather, one could stick a couple of 7-hour chemical hand-warmers into each shoe to enhance drying and warm up frozen shoes. These methods will not guarantee the transformation of soaking wet shoes to absolute dry ones (on the insides), but they'll make a terrific improvement.

10/03 Update:
I have always touted the Cresta Hiker as the best hiking boot. However, my thinking about boots for backpacking has changed. For 3-season hiking I now want a boot with a sneaker-like feel, light(er) weight, and a medium flex to the sole. After trying-on and using many hiking boots (light hiker and traditional leather) I purchased two new boots (2/03). Test-driven in Yosemite (7/03), I now use the much lighter, moderately stiff soled Merrell XCR (mid-cut) for 3-season hiking, and the heavier Salomon GTX (high-cut) for snowshoeing.

11/04 Update:
In 2004, I think my search has ended for a good 3-season light-hiker shoe for multi-day backpacking. I purchased Montrail's Hurricane Ridge XCRs. They're the lightest and most comfortable low cut "light hiker" I've worn so far. Although I wasn't impressed with them as trail runners (nothing compares with my Asics GT2100s), I love 'em for hiking! Also, their insides seem to dry quickly when wet/damp.

PROBLEM: One down side seemed to be the outer fabric/mesh of the shoe. I found it held water in wet weather and it broke down at the flex points on each toe box..
SOLUTION: Montrail replaced the shoes without a hassle because of the fabric breakdown, and I've been advised to treat the outer mesh with a water proofing product. AOK!

Personal Cookware: I love to cook on the trail. I'm sold on dehydrating and vacuum sealing my own meals. I want cookware that is light, will diffuse cooking heat evenly, is easy to clean, and comes in various sizes. I only bring cookware required for my recipe needs.

MSR Blacklite Non-Stick Cookware has set the standard for the best cookware... until their Titan Titanium Cookware was released in 2002. Here's what I currently pack:

(1) MSR Blacklite Non-Stick Cookware: Various sized pots (up to 4.5 Qts) and handle-less frying pans; an ultra light gripper is required.

(2) MSR Titan Titanium (covered) Mug/Pot: Ideal for solo cooking. Replaces the need for a bowl and mug. Easy to drink from after heated on a stove because the drinking lip cools very fast. (3-cup(+) pot w/ lid; 4-oz; $40)

(3) Titanium fork & spoon 1-oz. ($20)

(4) MSR Alpine Folding Utensils - ladle, spatula & strainer (resin)

(5) MSR Tea Pot: Clearly a luxury item. Like the Titan Titanium Pot/Mug, this small kettle uses a method to prevent the handle from getting hot and it's ideal for treating yourself to a nice "pour."

(6) Squeeze tubes (2-oz.) for jelly, margarine, etc.; bring extra end clips as they are known for breaking; don't reuse clips on subsequent trips because they will break.

(7) Platypus Water Tank: 6-lit.bag (3-oz).; ideal for camp/cooking water storage or (not both) as a pre-filtration storage tank to allow silt to settle in. ($16)

(8) Platypus bladder (extra): 1-lit. (0.7-oz.) or 2.4-lit. (1-oz.); I mark theses bladders in gradations of cups of water for cooking purposes. They make great backup canteens to my MSR Dromlite Bladders. ($5/$6)

Bear Proof Food Canister

Backpackers' Cache (Model 812)
Purchased through Yosemite Natl Park Store

2-lb/7-oz $73

Why a bear proof food canister? Two reasons. First... the Adirondacks, where I mostly hike, is officially known as Bear Country. Secondly, I no longer put any thought or energy into protecting my food from any creature. I simply drop my food canister on the ground - 75 feet from my tent.

I've done some research and have learned that canisters should be rated and approved for their effectiveness. The official Yosemite National Park web site has all info you'll need to choose one. I purchased mine through their store.

The canister info boasts it will hold enough food for one person for 5 days. I dehydrate everything, and have found this to be the case... albeit, a very close fit! Pack as much food as you can without vacuum sealing pouches because they fit/store easier in the canister.

1/04 Update: The bear canister is a keeper. In Yosemite, I got bear bites on the orange duct tape and reflecting tape wrapped around the canister for easy locating (day or night)... and, that was the extent of my loss/damage. I will gladly carry the 2-lb/7-oz canister for peace of mind in the backcountry. (It's also critical for teaching bears you have no food for them.)

One Burner Cooking Stove
and accessories:

Primus Himalayan Multi-Fuel Stove 1-lb./6-oz.

Spare parts Stove tools

MSR Fuel Bottles: 22-fl.oz. Bottle Empty at 4.3-oz. Full at 1-lb./5-oz.

11-fl.oz. Bottle Empty at 2.7-oz. Full at 14-oz.

Wind Shield 1-oz.

Airline Travel, Stoves and Fuel: With airline security as it is in 2004, backpackers traveling by air are presented with stove problems that go beyond the previous safety guidelines for transporting them: (1) empty all stove gas lines of fuel and pack in freezer type, Zip-Loc bags; (2) empty, wash and dry white gas bottles and store them in a freezer type, Zip-Loc bags; and (3) no fuel. Although transporting cooking stoves is a huge issue/problem for backpackers, airlines simply are avoiding the responsibility to make it possible to transport a critical piece of backpacking gear. In the future I'm planning to purchase a MSR Pocket Rocket ($35) for air travel because it has no fuel lines and simply screws into a butane/propane canister which I'll purchase at the destination.

One Burner Cooking Stoves: If you think hiking boots have been honored with zillions of opinions, guess what. Cooking stoves generate as much debate. Depending on the type of cooking you intend to do, you will choose either a simple pot boiler or one that allows for varied fuel types and flame adjustments for sensitive flame needs.

The two main types of fuel are: butane/propane canisters and white gas. Butane/propane canisters are sealed units that are convenient to use, come in various sizes, don't function as well in colder temperatures, lack a reliable way to know how much fuel is remaining (especially when used on your next trip), and present it's owner with an "empty canister" disposal problem. White gas is cheaper, burns better at higher altitudes and colder temperatures, can be messy to pour into fuel bottles, and (unlike butane/propane canisters) requires more effort because you fill and maintain the white gas bottles yourself. (Truly, not a problem.)

Regardless of the stove you buy and it's advertised fuel burn rate, only cooking experience will teach you how much fuel you'll need per trip. For example, the Boys and I generally agree that breakfasts require no more then boiled water for drinks and food. We do not cook for lunch. When I prepare dehydrated dinners, I calculate how much water I will need to boil and simmering times for cooking.

I now have a Primus Himalayan Multi-Fuel Stove. I use white gas stored in MSR fuel bottles. The stove works great, but it has taken me some time to learn how to simmer foods on a low flame without burning it. Finally, I'd recommend a wind shield for your stove. I have a lightweight aluminum shield that you simply bend and shape around the stove. It has a small collar to place below the flame to prevent updrafts that will rob you of cooking time and fuel. Use a narrow piece of clear packing tape to fold over the edge of the collar to prevent serious slices to the hand and fingers. It folds small.	"g" forgets to place that ever so important strip of clear packing tape on the edge of his wind screen.