"g's" Gear Choices
for
The Basics
(costs are approximate)

"g's" Gear Tips

Backpack:

Osprey
Aether 60
3900 cu.in.
3-lb./7-oz.
$200

2003 Best Buy
Backpacker magazine's choice!

Backpacks: When RB and I returned from our ill-fated trip into the Canyon (5/01), we decided to rethink our gear/weight ratio strategy. We agreed to limit our total pack weight to 40-lbs for the next trip. That meant: new gear and weight reductions. (Yahoo!)

At the time I had an EMS 550 (5500 cu.in.) pack with two external pouches to carry water and misc. gear. It weighed nearly 8-lbs. To get a lighter pack, I became delirious in my research for alternative pack designs that would drop me into the 3-lb range.

I chose the Aether 60 (by Osprey) because of its low weight to high volume ratio. With 1,600 cu.in. less then the EMS 550, the Aether 60 offered the right kind of incentive to pack light(er). Field testing of the Aether 60 proved the pack to be ergonomically designed to fit the contour of my back, and consequently, rode well when filled. (I also chopped nearly 4-lbs off my total pack weight.)

1/04 Field Test Update: Having hiked in the White Mts., Tetons, Grand Canyon, Yosemite, and the Adirondacks with the Aether 60, it continues to be my perfect pack. It's 3900 cu.in. forces me to pack smaller and lighter. Another fantastic feature is its ability to transform into a day back... an attribute I often use on multi-day backpacking trips that include day-trips. And, guess what... the Aether 60 won Backpacker magazine's, 2003 Best Buy award!

(In 2004 I tried to waterproof the shell of my pack and avoid having to carry a rain proof pack cover. 4 coats of water proofing failed to offer any protection.)

PS: As of 5/05, the following Boys now carry the Osprey: The Hat, RB, Vioxx Mike, AXE, "g" and now Iron Man Al

Tent with
plastic ground cloth (2-ml):

Sierra Designs Clip Flashlight CD Two-Person Tent 4.5-lbs. $180

Tents: A good solo-backpacking tent should be less then 4.5-lbs - complete! The lighter the tent, the less likely it was designed to be be freestanding (i.e., not dependent on lines and tent stakes). Depending on your backcountry terrain (i.e., sleeping on a rock ledge in the Grand Canyon), pitching a non-freestanding tent could be problematic.

In the ultra-light business, manufacturers strive for the lightest advertised tent weight. They design tents which limit basic material requirements for function and weight reduction. While some of these concepts are useful, some simply get the product's advertised weight down to competitive levels, and often require add-ons (extra weight) to be versatile. For example, many ultra-light tent weights might allow for 12 tent stakes and line to be versatile in diverse weather conditions, but only include 8 for up to moderate weather. Therefore, the manufacturer can reduce the overall advertised tent weight by 4-oz. In a competitive market, a potential buyer may literally be looking for the lightest tent. Know your tent needs/options, terrain expectations, total weight requirements including possible add-ons, and weather. You might be better off having more then one tent depending on these factor.

1/04 Field Update: Axe has the correct idea. He has a Eureka solo tent that is freestanding and weighs about 3.9-lbs. I've had some concerns about my tent and ultra-lights that are not freestanding because of the terrain limitations I've encountered when trying to anchor tent stakes in sand or rock!

Bivy Sack: What the heck am I thinking? In 2004, I planned to backpack without a tent. I used the more claustrophobic form of weather protection that boasts minimalism in terms of creature comforts and the convenience/roominess of a tent!

In an effort to chop 3-lbs off of my pack weight, I was willing to accept this new challenge. A good bivy sack is a waterproof, breathable and rugged shell you slip your sleeping pad and bag into. It protects you regardless of the elements from head to toe. The above-the-head zone should feature an overhead pole that keeps the bivy off your face. Mine sports an adjusting canopy for cold/warm weather and a detachable bug net. The criteria for my continued use of a bivy sack will be its (1) effective ability to vent body moisture (fabric breathability) and (2) my ability to cope with the extreme loss and convenience of a tent's party-room like space for easy dressing/undressing, storing and protecting gear from weather, and rainy days!

Gear Update - 8/04: The bivy is a real trip! In rainy weather it's no fun. But... it's 2-3 lbs lighter then a light weight tent. I also purchased 3 very light Titanium stakes to pin down it's corners. Hot weather can make the bivy steamy inside, so in warm weather I'd bring a synthetic bag that will air dry quickly the next day. The bivy met my primary goal for being light and compact on my 6 day backpacking trip (48 mi) on Vancouver Island's, West Coast Trail (7/04). It was a perfect companion to my synthetic bag... albeit, we had no damp weather.

Sleeping bag:

Western Mountaineering
MegaLight Down Bag
Mummy style
Extra Length
2-oz. 700 Down Fill Added
Rated: 25 degree
1-lb/14-oz
$350

Sleeping bags: Like many high-tech things, all sleeping bags are limited to certain standards. They include weight, resistance to wetness, warmth factor when wet or damp, wet bag drying time in the field, warmth factor per temperature, breathability of materials, compression size for packing, and special features designed for improving the quality of sleep. There is also the debate between down and synthetic bags for colder weather. Down is not a good insulator when wet, but weighs less, is warmer and compacts smaller then synthetic bags.

1/04 Update/Field Test: My first bag was an LL Beans 40 Degree High Camp HV bag (2-lb/11-oz). I loved it's small size and warmth factor in wet/damp weather. I purchased its 20 degree version (3-lb/13-oz) before my 8/02 trip to the Tetons. After the trip, I returned it because of it's bulk and weight. I have since purchased an ultra-light, Western Mountaineering MegaLight, down bag. My criteria: ultra-light; widest girth for ultra-lights (64 in.); and compactability. I will use my 40 degree bag in warmer climates

Beware... down bags that boast the lightest weights typically have the most narrow girths and sometimes are not designed for normal sized or tall campers. Try them on for a good fit.

Sleeping pad:

Therm-A-Rest Ridge Rest
Closed cell/foam; storage - rolled/bulky; long; 14-oz; $23.

Therm-A-Rest Ultra Light
Inflatable; storage - rolled/highly compact; long; 1-lb/8-oz; $70.

Sleeping pad: For me, a pad is essential under any circumstances. In cold weather, it's a requirement. The challenge here is to strike a balance between pad weight, compressed size for packing, and comfort. A closed cell, non-inflating pad has tremendous merit in the "can't spring a leak" and "lower weight" departments, but loses in the compression and comfort categories. For me, the 2 main choices are the Therm-A-Rest Ultra Light (inflatable) at 1-lb/8-oz. or Z-Rest (closed cell/foam; folding) at 1-lb.

5/03 Update: I just purchased the very bulky, Therm-A-Rest Ridge Rest to pack lighter. It's sleeping comfort rests between the Ultra Light and Z-Rest. I plan to leave home the heavier Ultra Light and it's repair kit for a 11-oz weight reduction.

8/03 Update: Having backpacked in Yosemite while using the Ridge Rest, I'm now committed to using only the Ultra Light because of its comfort! It's worth the +11 ounces.

Left: The massive-looking, featherlight Ridge Rest compared
to the Ultra Light and Standard Referencing Device.

Ridge Rest: 14-oz ($28)
Ultra Light: 1-lb/8-oz ($70)
Standard Referencing Device: 1-lb/4-oz ($2)

Hydration system:

MSR
2-lit. Dromlite
Hydration Bladder
2-lit.bladder: 3.1 oz.
Drinking tube and bite: 2.5 oz.
$35

Hydration System: All hiking and backpacking trips require adequate hydration. At least 3-oz each 15 minutes is a great rule of thumb. The criteria for choosing your system includes (1) the size of the hydration container, (2) the durability of the container, (3) its weight, (4) convenience for use while moving/hiking, (5) storage on/in your pack, and (6) ease of cleaning and drying (airing out).

Hydration systems are either plastic bottles or resin bladders that hang on your pack or are neatly stored in a pack pouch. Bladders have a plastic tube with a bite valve that stretches from the water bladder and to a fastener on a pack shoulder strap for easy access to drinking. Hiking with a water bottle is not as conducive to remaining hydrated because of the extra effort to reach for it.

At first I used the Platypus hydration (bladder) system. It's very light, relatively inexpensive, can be repaired in the field with it's own brand tape, and folds absolutely flat when empty. The down side: Creases will eventually leak from folding/unfolding; caps have had a tendency to leak; and the bladder material doesn't meet my criteria for abrasion protection and durability.

During my 10/01 trip into the Grand Canyon, I used the MSR Dromlite Hydration System. It's slightly heavier then the Platypus because it's resin bladder is sealed to a denier fabric to resist punctures and abrasions. Its screw-on cap is constructed and placed differently on the bladder, and it's not likely to leak. The drinking tube and bite valve are larger to allow for greater gulps of drink. It's designed with a grommet at the top for hanging on your pack or at camp - a critical benefit. It's also designed to attach to my MSR Miniworks Ceramic (water) Filter - another critical benefit!

As with any hydration system, carry spare parts. Do not be caught in the backcountry without repair tape, extra bite valve, and a connector that attaches the drinking tube to the bladder.

1/04 Update: My thinking about hydration systems has been effected by Ray Jardine's, Beyond Backpacking. I now pack 3 or 4, 1-qt plastic soda bottles (1-oz each). For extra portability, I also tote a flattened Platypus 2-Liter bladder (1-oz). Compared to my former MSR hydration system (8.7-oz), I've cut my weight by 5.7-oz. As a result of backpacking in Yosemite (7/03) with the new system... I've learned it works! Additionally, plastic soda bottles are cheap, durable, don't leak from the cap, are easy to replace, and store easier in one's pack without fear of springing a leak better then any hydration system I've used.

Water Filter:

MSR
Miniworks Ceramic Filter
14-oz.
$70

Water Filters: Water filters should not be confused with water purifiers. Water filters, which backpackers use, remove particles from water. This includes Protozoa (e.g., Giaradia). During my trip to the Grand Canyon (10/01) we filtered water from the incredibly silty, Colorado. At the time (and for the last time) I used a PUR Scout Filter which boasted a self-cleaning filter. We were incredibly lucky to get one more day of water from it's clogged filter which could not be cleaned. PS: PUR had stopped selling the Scout and its replacement cartridges due to (what I was told by a salesman) EPA concerns.

9/02 Update/Field Test: After numerous uses, this filter is truly field-friendly and very easy to clean. Attaching the MSR bladder to the MSR filter or Nalgene bottle for filling is easy and convenient! A light weight repair kit with instructions should be brought along. When replacing the ceramic cartridge, save the old O-rings because they don't come with it's repair kit.